Shikoku Pilgrimage - Why do it?

People do the pilgrimage for many different reasons. Some just like to walk, some because they are devout Buddhists, and some are searching for something and hope the pilgrimage will help them to find it. For me it was the challenge of a major trek that got me started, but it was the people I met that made it special.

Kobo Daishi was brilliant in the way he set up the concept of Osettai. The people of Shikoku give gifts to the Ohenro-san in return for good karma and the Ohenro-san receive gifts and encouragement from the people. These random, out of nowhere acts of kindness are what make the Shikoku Pilgrimage unique. The end result is that everyone feels good. It was such a wonderful experience because of the people and the osettai concept.

When you walk the pilgrimage, you meet these groups of people...

• Japanese ohenro-san who are doing the pilgrimage. They are typically very interested in why you are doing it.  Many are doing it for their 2nd, 3rd, or more times and are full of advice. Some are Sendatsu who are experts in the Pilgrimage. Most are section hiking.

Non-Japanese ohenro-san like us. Most foreigners seem to be doing the entire route.

• Hosts that open up their homes as Minshuku.  Some will even wash your staffs as a sign of respect for what you are doing. They like to meet ohenro-san and are very helpful with advice and helping foreigners call to reserve lodging. Some provided breakfast and dinner, some did not, and a few even provided lunches.  Many of these folks were in their 70 - 80's so I am not sure how much longer this aspect of Shikoku Henro will still exist.
  

• Locals who offer encouragement, osettai, maintain the henro huts and trails, open up their restrooms, and took time to talk with us about what they were doing so we were able to learn more about the culture of Shikoku and its way of life.  They would literally stop their car, turn on the hazard lights, and jump out to give us osettai.  They were amazing people.

• And finally osettai.  This concept just makes you feel good as you never know when it will happen.  Osettai really are random acts of kindness.  We were recipients many times and a few times we were able to give osettai to other ohenro-san.  My favorite osettai were the sweet lemon citrus. Other osettai included money, drinks, lunches, sweet snacks, etc.  Sometimes when we purchased stuff at a convenience store they would give us a handful of hard candy to keep our energy up.