Thursday, June 6, 2024

Thursday, May 30, 2024

Tokyo Apartment

We decided to get an apartment in Tokyo as it looks like we will be spending 5 - 6 months a year here. This is easier said than done as there are many, what seem to be weird, rules about getting apartments that make it very difficult for a part time, retired, non-japanese person to get one. A few of the rules are:
  • Require income equal to 3 months rent (kind of hard as we have no income)
  • Require a guarantor who is local - this is someone who will pay if you cannot. 
  • Require a residence card
  • A Japanese phone number
  • Japanese bank account
  • Emergency contact in Japan
But where there is a will, there is a way.  Sawako found a non-profit rental corporation called UR that will waive the income and guarantor requirements if you pay for a year up front.  We got a 3 bedroom apartment so Joichi can live there with us which takes of the next 3 items.  Finally, Lisa is the emergency contact.

The apartment is in Hikarigaoka which is a planned development on an old military base in Nerima City (heart icon) on the Northwest side ot Tokyo. 

Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Shikoku Pilgrimage - Lessons Learned


In no particular order, these are some of the lessons I learned on this trek that I hope will help you if you decide to do the Shikoku Pilgrimage.  Some of these are unique to Shikoku and some apply to any kind of a trek.

  • Follow the henro signs as they often lead to shorter routes or routes off the main roads which are more scenic.  A few times the routes were longer, but that was rare.
  • The henro signs also will lead to temple back entries that are shorter and more scenic.
  • Start out slower and build up. We followed a preset 50 day itinerary, but in the first week we had a steep hill climb and a 32 and 37km days. If I do it again, I would have added in an extra day and kept our walking to around 20-25km a day.
  • The people are what makes this special. The other ohenro-san,  hosts, and random people that give you encouragement and or osettai.
  • You really need to know Japanese to get the most from the trip. I was very fortunate that my wife, Sawako, is Japanese who would clue me into important things.  You can still enjoy it without knowing Japanese, but you will miss out on a lot.
  • Start at temple 1 in the morning to meet other ohenro-sans immediately.  We did temple 1 in the evening and it was empty.  We really only started meeting other ohenro-sans on the third day.
  • The poncho still got wet on the inside from sweat. Bring a pack cover and light raincoat and an umbrella. When it's so humid any poncho is just a sauna.
  • Bring lots of extra moleskin for blisters as it's not available in Shikoku. Best alternative I found were Dr Sholls pads in a few stores.
  • Be flexible as things will not go as expected.  I got blisters, a big shin splint, and had to have a root canal.  For me this meant switching to public transit for a week or so to deal with these issues. I am sure something will happen on your trek.
  • Hope for good weather luck.  You will get rain, it just depends on when you get it. We were very, very fortunate in that only one day we changed our plans to avoid a mountain trail due to rain.  If we had started 1 day earlier we would have had rain on 4 major mountain climbs instead of just one that had an easy road option around it.  This would have made the trip much longer and not as nice with more road walking.
  • Ship extra stuff home so you don't int have to carry it.  We did this twice.  First time was extra stuff we brought as this was our first trek, the second time was because we were given or had purchased stuff and did not want to carry it. 
  • Keep your pack as light as possible as over 50 days, the weight really makes a difference.
  • Plan to end around 1500 each day so you have extra time to talk with the locals.  This worked well for us except for the 37km day where we had so many interactions with locals that we barely made the last temple by 1700 before it closed.
  • Be aware, if possible of local events such as Golden Week (major traveling holiday in Japan).  During this week it is very hard to find lodging so you may want to reserve it way in advance.  Sawako planned our trip in advance, but we still had problems with a local event that filled up all the lodging around Kumakogen so we had to walk an extra 5km.
  • Certain places like Minshuku Okada are very hard to get reservations at.  Sawako actually made that reservation first and then planned the rest of the trip around it.
  • Stay at a few temples just to experience it.  I highly recommend Temple 6, Anrakuji has they have a very nice evening service.
  • Be sure to go to Koyasan after completing the Shikoku Trek.  We stayed one night, if I do it again I will stay 2 - 3 nights as there are lots of hikes in that area and it is very pretty.
  • Pre-buy some of the gear online instead of waiting and getting it at temple #1.  We got the vest, bag, wagesa, beads, and stamp book before we went. We got the hat and staff at the first temple. Especially get the vest as the one at the temple is all cotton, hard to keep clean, and dry.  This one is much, much better:
    • https://ippoippo-do.com/collections/hakui/products/shikoku-pilgrimage-white-vest-with-sleeves-and-printed-phrases-on-the-back-comfortable-and-functional-fabrics
  • I would also get the strap and frame for the hat from that company so you do not have to jury rig something like I did:
    • https://ippoippo-do.com/collections/sedge-hat-sugegasa-%E8%8F%85%E7%AC%A0
  • Stay at Minshukus or Ryokans if you can.  In some areas the only option is a business hotel, but you really miss out on meeting people if that is all you use.

Tuesday, May 21, 2024

Shikoku Pilgrimage - Ways to do it


You can walk, ride a bicycle, take tour, use transit, or a car to complete the pilgrimage. You just need to visit all 88 temples. 

  • Car: Can complete in 2 weeks, but minimal interactions with the local people other than hosts assuming you stay at Minshukus and not business hotels.  A common way to do it for many Japanese.
  • Taxi Tour: Like a car, but rent a taxi and driver to take you to all 88 temples or do it in sections.  We saw a few groups doing this.
  • Bus Tour: Aimed more at devout Buddhists as they often have a guide to lead prayers at each temple. Can do in 2 - 3 weeks depending on the tour.
  • Cycling: Can do in 3 weeks. Same as cars and tours in that minimal interactions with local people.  There is also a Cycling Tour.
  • Walking: Takes 42+ days and is considered the 'real' way to do it by many people as this is how the pilgrimage was done historically. It is also the only way where you really get to experience the best parts of the pilgrimage - the encouragement and Osettai with local people.

In addition many people will do it in sections during their vacations. Only retired people or people who are between jobs tend to walk the entire pilgrimage at once due the time involved.

Shikoku Pilgrimage - Why do it?

People do the pilgrimage for many different reasons. Some just like to walk, some because they are devout Buddhists, and some are searching for something and hope the pilgrimage will help them to find it. For me it was the challenge of a major trek that got me started, but it was the people I met that made it special.

Kobo Daishi was brilliant in the way he set up the concept of Osettai. The people of Shikoku give gifts to the Ohenro-san in return for good karma and the Ohenro-san receive gifts and encouragement from the people. These random, out of nowhere acts of kindness are what make the Shikoku Pilgrimage unique. The end result is that everyone feels good. It was such a wonderful experience because of the people and the osettai concept.

When you walk the pilgrimage, you meet these groups of people...

  • Japanese ohenro-san who are doing the pilgrimage. They are typically very interested in why you are doing it.  Many are doing it for their 2nd, 3rd, or more times and are full of advice. Some are Sendatsu who are experts in the Pilgrimage. Most are section hiking.
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